Photo by Ana Margarita Flores of a person wearing headdress while standing in a landscape covered in tall yellow flowers

Gradwatch 2024: Ana Margarita Flores, London College of Fashion

Photographer Ana Margarita Flores has been chosen as part of our annual Gradwatch showcase, where we celebrate the next generation of talent in the creative industries

The work of Peruvian-Swiss photographer Ana Margarita Flores deftly toes the line between delicate and powerful. Her images are an amalgamation of her cultural background and her grounding in fashion photography, manifesting in beautiful photographs that dial into personal expression through dress and body language.

Flores studied fashion photography at the London College of Fashion (LCF), which she looks back on fondly thanks to the encouraging teaching staff and the opportunities to connect with industry professionals. “One key lesson I took away from university is that if you want to improve a skill, you have to actively pursue it. Don’t wait for opportunities to come to you – go and seek them out. The tools are all here, you just need to take the initiative.”

Photo by Ana Margarita Flores of a person wearing a purple circular garment on their head which frames their face
Photo by Ana Margarita Flores of two Peruvian women wearing embroidered waistcoats and red skirts. One person is standing and smiling, the other person is lying on the grass and holding a shutter release. In the background are misty mountains

In Flores’ case, she was drawn to analogue photography and the darkroom. “It allowed me to develop new skills, gain a deeper understanding of colours and discover my preferences while also learning and connecting with other analogue photographers.” Her palettes, evolved during those years spent in the darkroom, have become a cornerstone of her work along with her compositional choices.

She is also gradually uncovering what she’s most interested in photographing. “Right now, my cultural heritage plays a key role in shaping my creative direction.” This has laid the foundations of a personal project called Hasta Las Estrellas (which translates as Up to the Stars), which she began in 2023 and is centred around her paternal grandmother, Ana, who lives in Peru. “This ongoing body of work blends staged and documentary photography, celebrating her femininity, resilience, and love for dance and music.”

Photo by Ana Margarita Flores of two people against a white backdrop, wearing white and deep red outfits and pale purple headdress. One person in the rear is out of focus, the other person in the foreground looks towards the camera
Photo by Ana Margarita Flores of two Peruvian women wearing blue and white clothing

Though this has become more of a conscious focal point for Flores, the connection between the two – fashion and cultural heritage – has always been there. “I remember when I first got interested in fashion photography, I came across an editorial in Vogue Italia that celebrated the Latin American community. It had a profound impact on me and made me realise how few Latin American creatives I knew of at the time. That really shaped my creative vision, both in front of and behind the camera,” she says.

When it comes to inspiration, the photographer looks to everyone from French New Wave filmmaker Agnès Varda and Mexican documentarian Graciela Iturbide to younger imagemakers including Tyler Mitchell, Nadine Ijewere and Camila Falquez. “Each of them has inspired me in unique ways – whether it’s their storytelling, how they connect with their subjects, their use of colour and composition, or the themes they explore,” she says.

Black and white photo by Ana Margarita Flores of three Peruvian women facing in different directions against a misty backdrop

“As my work continues to evolve, I find myself increasingly inspired by filmmakers, painters and other artists with Peruvian or Latin American heritage. This not only helps me connect more deeply with my roots but also broadens my visual understanding, enriching the way I approach my own work.”

Moving forward, Flores’ sights are set on making a career solely through photography, which she acknowledges will be a challenge but one that she is clearly setting herself up for. Her portfolio has already caught the attention of industry platforms like Vogue Italia, and she has worked on collaborations outside of her studies, including with photographer and curator Ronan Mckenzie.

Photo by Ana Margarita Flores of three people, two of them wearing crimson long-sleeved shirts and pale purple headwear, with their backs facing the camera as they walk through a field towards misty mountains in the background
Portrait photo by Ana Margarita Flores of a person with their eyes closed and their hand held up towards their grey braided hair, and wearing layers of clothes in yellow and pale purple

“We first connected in 2022 when I photographed her for the cover of New Wave Magazine. Since then, I’ve had the opportunity to walk for her brand, Selasi, and also photograph two campaigns. Each collaboration has been a unique and inspiring experience.”

Collaboration is something that she hopes to continue doing with more creatives, along with her ambitions to travel for projects, see her photographs featured in publications she admires, and ultimately create poignant work. “Above all, I hope to make genuine and meaningful connections with the people I will meet along the way.”

Photo by Ana Margarita Flores of a person with their hair blowing across their face and wearing a blue, white, yellow and red tiered garment

@anmaflor